Do you need to record the serial numbers of the wired keypads as you install them to identify them for programming? Are other wired devices identified by their serial numbers when you program them into the system? Thank you!
Miyerkules, Hunyo 22, 2016
Martes, Hunyo 21, 2016
$1 billion funding gap for Scarborough transit a question of 'priorities'

Chief planner Jennifer Keesmaat says city council now needs to make the tough decisions on an "optimized" plan.
Kenmore wash machine has mind of it's own during spin cycle.
This is Kenmore 70 Series HD ....Model #110.22722.100
For a long time now (year +) I sometimes have to lift and close the lid or push/pull the cycle control knob to get the machine to spin after the wash cycle and/or after the rinse cycle. The machine ALWAYS drains and SOMETIMES completes the cycles on it's own.
So after reading and watching videos, I was convinced the lid switch was bad.
Then the other day, another problem appeared. No spin OR agitation, just a clattering noise, which after some investigation, sounded like the coupler.
So I was now pushed into the repair job.
Got a new coupler and lid switch. Both installations went smooth as silk.
All SEEMED to be fine in a quick test, but as soon as I put the machine into an entire wash cycle, no spin again.
I should mention that once in a great while, my problem mirrored one posted by DyannP who said after washing, the machine just sat there as the clock cycled and did nothing more.
What's really crazy is that if I push the control knob in and pull it back out, or lift the lid slightly and close it again, the spin cycle starts right up which tells me that maybe the lid switch was actually not the problem.
Anyway it's brand new now, so I know this one's good. So what can be causing the spin problem? When it spins, it spins fast so I know it's not the clutch.
Could this be in the timer control knob? or a wiring problem???
I need HELP!
For a long time now (year +) I sometimes have to lift and close the lid or push/pull the cycle control knob to get the machine to spin after the wash cycle and/or after the rinse cycle. The machine ALWAYS drains and SOMETIMES completes the cycles on it's own.
So after reading and watching videos, I was convinced the lid switch was bad.
Then the other day, another problem appeared. No spin OR agitation, just a clattering noise, which after some investigation, sounded like the coupler.
So I was now pushed into the repair job.
Got a new coupler and lid switch. Both installations went smooth as silk.
All SEEMED to be fine in a quick test, but as soon as I put the machine into an entire wash cycle, no spin again.
I should mention that once in a great while, my problem mirrored one posted by DyannP who said after washing, the machine just sat there as the clock cycled and did nothing more.
What's really crazy is that if I push the control knob in and pull it back out, or lift the lid slightly and close it again, the spin cycle starts right up which tells me that maybe the lid switch was actually not the problem.
Anyway it's brand new now, so I know this one's good. So what can be causing the spin problem? When it spins, it spins fast so I know it's not the clutch.
Could this be in the timer control knob? or a wiring problem???
I need HELP!
Appion TEZ8
Quick question for someone who owns this unit
If you hook up your vacuum gauge directly off the unit with all the other caps on, should it pull down to 50 microns or below rather quickly like I think it should?
Testing a unit I bought on Fleabay which the unit looks barely used but came with some mystery oil. I have run the unit through several purge cycles but still cannot get it below 5000 microns. All the seals are in the original Appion caps.
Fresh oil getting a little cloudy in short order which makes me think there are still contaminates in the unit.
Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk
If you hook up your vacuum gauge directly off the unit with all the other caps on, should it pull down to 50 microns or below rather quickly like I think it should?
Testing a unit I bought on Fleabay which the unit looks barely used but came with some mystery oil. I have run the unit through several purge cycles but still cannot get it below 5000 microns. All the seals are in the original Appion caps.
Fresh oil getting a little cloudy in short order which makes me think there are still contaminates in the unit.
Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk
Bard wall unit ASCD Timer error
I have a Bard Wall unit (heat pump) that keeps showing an ASCD timer error and shuts off. After three times it locks out completely. The board was changed by another tech and the stat was swapped out as well. This is my first post here, hope I did it right.
Thanks
RAWynn1
Thanks
RAWynn1
Double Oven Wiring
Hey everybody. My wife and I are remodeling our home and she has decided on a Jenn-Air JJW2830DS double oven. The house currently has a single gas oven with an unused 240V outlet. The circuit is 40A with 8/3 stranded wire, my plan was to pull the wiring up and run it down to our new location. I was reading through the installation instructions for the oven and it states the oven requires 8g solid wire. I emailed customer support asking for clarification/reasoning and the response I got was "solid wire is required". Can anyone explain the reasoning behind this?
I've looked around some and didn't see anything in the NEC specifying solid vs stranded wire but I'm not an electrician and it can be difficult to decode sometimes. I've looked at both HD and Lowes and the 50' or cut to length 8/3 was stranded, the individual strands did appear to be thicker gauge than what we have currently. I'm comfortable with the wiring, especially since it will basically just be redoing what is already there. Getting the new wire into the box and the old wire out is my main concern so I'm undecided if I will attempt it myself or call an electrician.
If I do it myself I'd have to track down some solid 8/3 but it should be under $100 which isn't too big a deal but would still like avoid it if unnecessary. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
I've looked around some and didn't see anything in the NEC specifying solid vs stranded wire but I'm not an electrician and it can be difficult to decode sometimes. I've looked at both HD and Lowes and the 50' or cut to length 8/3 was stranded, the individual strands did appear to be thicker gauge than what we have currently. I'm comfortable with the wiring, especially since it will basically just be redoing what is already there. Getting the new wire into the box and the old wire out is my main concern so I'm undecided if I will attempt it myself or call an electrician.
If I do it myself I'd have to track down some solid 8/3 but it should be under $100 which isn't too big a deal but would still like avoid it if unnecessary. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
Lunes, Hunyo 20, 2016
A/C Dampers?
I apologize for asking so many questions...but every
company that gives me an A/C bid tells me something
no one else did. :(
The guy today recommended dampers to control
the air flow. No one else has mentioned them.
Are they recommended?
Thanks so much.
company that gives me an A/C bid tells me something
no one else did. :(
The guy today recommended dampers to control
the air flow. No one else has mentioned them.
Are they recommended?
Thanks so much.
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